Zanzibar Island

After meeting Malinga we travelled the next day by ferry (NEVER DO THIS IF YOU CAN HELP IT) to Zanzibar Island for a few days of post-medical caravan rest with Jenn and Chris. It is a unique place that was once an Omani colony. Zanzibar and Tanganyika joined together about 60 years ago to become Tanzania. It is 85% Muslim and the port city of Stone Town really reflects this. Stone Town is famous for its carved wooden doors that really look like something out of the Middle East. They are exquisitely beautiful. The most famous (or infamous) stories of Stone town are around the slave trade. Tanzania was the 'exit point' for almost all the slaves who left Africa at the height of the slave trade. Slaves would be captured in other parts of Africa (Malawi, Zambia, Congo, Burundi, Uganda...essentially all the countries that border Tanzania) and forced to walk (yes, walk) to the ports in Bagamoyo and Dar es Salaam. They would then be taken by boat to Zanzibar Island and traded by our white, evil, colonialist ancestors. The slaves were 'kept' in underground caverns where a dark dingy stone room that could comfortably fit 15-20 would hold not less than 75 slaves. Many suffocated or died of dehydration. The heat in Zanzibar was like nothing I have ever felt. It is very close to the equator and very tropical. Even at the slave trade memorial site, that was in the shade, I could feel the sweat dripping off the back of my legs. The site is reasonably well preserved and pays homage to the slaves that were killed as well as those men (missionaries) who worked to abolish slavery. Dr. Livingston's memorial (of the famous " Dr. Livingston I presume") is there as well. You may remember him as the great African explorer who died at the mouth of the river Nile. He spent quite a lot of time in Tanzania and had many African friends. Just before he died he wrote letters to Britain requesting that the slave trade be ended. He unfortunately died before he got to see this happen but he is one of the men who is accredited with helping to bring the horrible practice to an end. We heard some unbelieveable stories from our guide, Mohammed. He was very well educated in the history of Zanzibar and the slave trade. He told us how women slaves were worth more than men because they could work in hard labour and prostitution AND then give birth to these babies who would also grow up to be slaves...a perfect little business if you were an evil slave owner. I will say no more about what they did to the babies when they were trying to auction slaves off and the babies cried...use your imagination.

At the site of the Anglican church that was built over the slave yards is a beautiful monument erected in 1998 (see picture of us).It shows slaves with chains on their necks in the trading pits. For such a horrible practice, and for the role that Tanzania played in it, I expected a little more int he way of manuments or memorials, but I guess they just don't really want to rememebr the whole nasty business.
Zanzibar Island is also know for its spice crop (a.k.a Spice Island). We didn't manage to take a spice tour that weekend...too hot to do with the kids who just wanted to swim...but maybe next time.
Our guide took us to our hotel where we would spend two great days. The resort was perched on the Indian Ocean. The beach was old coral reef and sand but the hotel had built a very long concrete path out to the next sandbar. During the changing tides you were able to see the aquatic life in the tidal pools. Hannah and Jack had a collection of hermit crabs going. Our room was a cottage on a cliff that was very Zanzibarian with netting around the beds and beautiful dark, carved woodwork. The kids particularly enjoyed the Masai 'security' guards who quietly circled the cottage every hour or so to be sure we were all safe. Jack befriended several of them (all in traditional Masai clothing) and one even showed jack a lion tooth he was wearing around his neck. He had killed the lion in the 1990's in the Ngorogoro Crater. Jack, has a million questions about everything...some of them should not be said in public either! Lets just say, we are working on that.
We move to Kilema Hospital tomorrow, now that the first caravan group has left. It will be nice to get settled in so that we can have things ready when the next group arrives and for when Mama Urasa comes next Wednesday for our home visit. This is required before Malinga can come to live with us as our foster child.